If you haven’t already you have to watch the Queen’s Gambit, a great series made even better by the gorgeous clothes the main character Beth Harmon wore.
After I binge watched this series, I knew I wanted to try and replicate my favourite top that she wore which was a slash neck with a contrast trim panelled loose fitting top.
I loved it!
So when I came across Sew Different Harmon Tee on Instagram I knew I had to have the pattern.
Downloaded, printed and stuck together I got to work. The pattern consists of a front and back piece the same size, the sleeve trim, the front/back centre panel and the front and back neck panel and facing, all the same size. I think the pattern pieces all being multi use was a way to keep the pattern simple.
Now if you read my previous blog you will know that I have vowed to make a toile for every new pattern, so with some cotton poplin that was some off cuts from the shop I made up the toile.
It was a little awkward fitting the trim to the neckline, bending the fabric the wrong way but the tip about cutting into the fabric before sewing made it easier.
It was a relatively simple sew, you need to be careful when sewing the facing and neck trim on to keep to your seam allowances but apart from that a simple construction.
Trying on my toile I realised the fit was pretty good for me, quite clipped around the waist/bum but it needs to fit there and so I thought that was fine. Photo is of the final top not the toile as I forgot to take photos of my toile! Whoops.
The problem I found was on the sleeves, with the trim added it meant the sleeve on my toile stuck out quite a bit. I knew that the fabric I used for my toile (cotton poplin) was a lot stiffer than the crepe and viscose twill I was going to use for my final top which I knew would make a difference.
After discussing with some sewing buddies I decided to cut the facing piece down so that it didn’t go all the way down to the sleeve trim, that way eliminating the double thickness on the sleeve, I think this maybe what would have been a better solution in the pattern rather than all the same pattern pieces for the trim and facing.
I have realised that making a toile means you already know how to put the garment together by the time you get to the final piece, a big bonus/less confusion.
It was a pretty quick sew with satisfying finished using the overlocker for all of the raw edges, I did use just one needle and three threads for the edges as the fabric was lightweight and I wanted to keep the seams light too.
Almost finished, now I don’t know about you but I hate facings, they always come out the top of the neckline. In this pattern they say to stitch in the ditch along the shoulder seams to stop this. This is a good thing to do but I don’t think enough so I added another couple of steps. I understitched around the neckline, stitched in the ditch and then also added a couple of hand sewn stitches from the facing to the inner seams of the front panel. There’s no way that facing is creeping out the top now.
The final result……?
I love it.